Interlaken

I write to you today sitting in a hammock eating while snacking on little caramel-hazelnut-chocolate yummies.  There is a light, cool breeze and happy voices in the background.  The light is just beginning to wane, but I can still tip my head back and see the light blue sky dotted with fluffy cumulonimbus clouds.  If I didn't know better, I would think I'd died and gone to heaven.

The train ride was quite long, but we got in a lot of good napping and reading.  At the last leg, we met a kind Swiss couple who filled us in on a bit of the language, customs, and affordable sights to see.  They were well-traveled and remarked politely on a lack of American interest/awareness about the wider world.  This has been a common theme in conversations with a variety of people from a variety of countries.  It has been very interesting to hear their perspective and share our observations and thoughts.

Once we arrived, we checked into our hostel.  Our travel buddies were already in Switzerland and mentioned how expensive it is.  They were not wrong.  We couldn't find CS hosts (sad face), so we wound up booking a hostel.  Below, you'll find a picture of the view from our window.  My camera failed to pick up one of the mountains, but you get the idea.  I am loving the hostel experience.  We taught and played Roll through the Ages with a couple of freshly graduated Manitobans.  We then had a lengthy conversation with a woman from Sydney and another from Nova Scotia.  I love the culture where it is just acceptable to walk up and ask if you can join someone's game or sit down and gracefully weave yourself into a conversation.

 

We planned some activities for tomorrow.  We're going to ride a cable car to the top of a mountain and hopefully fit in a bit of a hike.  In the afternoon, we have booked a whitewater rafting trip with Class III and IV rapids.  Woo hoo!  Once that was wrapped up, it was time to head to Hotel Schuh for a Chocolate Show!

I'd head about touring a Swiss chocolate factory on this morning's walk to the train station, but when I researched it online it would have been 2.5 hours to get there and it is actually operated by Nestle.  We have limited time here, so I looked into other options.  A local hotel offered the chance to watch the process and perhaps try your hand at it.  Yes!

First, the chef showed us some cocoa beans and talked through a video that explained the process of harvesting and roasting them.  I didn't realize it, but the pod containing cocoa beans is split open and harvested by hand.  The initial fermentation process is also done by hand.  Chocolate is very valuable!  He then explain the ingredients in the three types of chocolate.  Cocoa powder + a little cocoa butter + sugar + vanilla = dark chocolate.  Obviously the best, by the way.  Cocoa powder + cocoa butter + sugar + milk powder = milk chocolate.  I was surprised to learn that milk chocolate generally does not contain vanilla.  Another point in the dark column.  Cocoa butter + sugar + milk powder + vanilla = white chocolate.  Confirming my suspicions, white chocolate is not real chocolate because it must contain both cocoa powder and cocoa butter.  To me, it's also the least tasty of all the chocolates.

Examples of chocolate types, cocoa processing, and ingredients

We got to try a sample of each and also a piece of 100% cocoa dark chocolate.  The chef said it wasn't very tasty for eating, but good to know about.  I don't know if it was leftover sugar in my mouth, but I thought it tasted just fine!  Next, he showed us a machine invented by Lindt that revolutionized the production of chocolate, allowing for the very smooth consistency in fine chocolates.  It spends 72 hours being processed in a liquid form!  Finally, it was time to learn how molded chocolates, in this case little mountains, were made.  First, he dusted the containers with a special powder to look like snow.  Next, he filled the mold with chocolate.

He would strike it several times with an implement to ensure all the bubbles were out and clean the top.  Finally, he poured the chocolate back into the melting bin, leaving just a shell.  He put this in the refrigerator and turned to repeating the process with a big mold (a shoe in this case, but think your hollow chocolate Easter bunny), only with more tapping and partial filling.  Once this was emptied, leaving just the coating, it went in the fridge and the first mold came back out.

He piped a caramel filling into each one, then poured chocolate over the top once more.  He tapped a bit, scraped the top and sides, and put in back into the refrigerator.  The shoe came back out, got a second coating, and went back in.  He pulled an already finished tray of caramels out and we got to sample them while he showed us taking the mold off the shoe and the completed product.

After that, we got to sample more chocolate, filled with all kinds of goodies.  He closed by answering questions while he dipped milk chocolate coated hazelnut/almond paste lollipops into either dark or milk chocolate then allowed us to add our own toppings - pistachios, coconuts, the Swiss version of M&Ms, dark chocolate balls, and/or white chocolate balls.  Om nom.  The staff was extremely sweet and accommodating - it's typically a minimum of 10 for the chocolate tour, but we got a "private" show(the first one they'd ever done!).

After spending the aforementioned time gaming, talking, and blogging, it is time to head to bed.  I'm positive a hammock has been added to my list of things to eventually purchase for our home.  I hope you're finding your own little slice of heaven.

Have a sweet day,
Megan

 

 

Rome, The Forum and Palatine Hill

This morning we got up slowly and headed over to the train station to reserve seats on the first train to Interlaken tomorrow morning. There was a number system and man were they fast on the draw to skip you if you didn't sprint up to their window, and they didn't even try to look around before they did it staring at their computer screen the whole time.

Later we went to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, pretty much just a huge set of ruins and active archeological sites right next to the Coliseum. It was one of the first areas settled by the ancient Romans and it sits on a hill overlooking the Tiber River and at the time one of the major trading crossroads, which was mainly just a big swamp that some roads ran through. Here is a good shot of the two of us from the hill to the Coliseum.

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There were lots of mounded rolling looking hills everywhere on the one side and after seeing this area I figure that most of that hill has some sort of ruin to hide under it...probably most of Rome included.

There were a few places where you could see where newer buildings had been constructed in the past on top of or including the bones of older ruins. The first one here being yet another church build on top of an older shrine or basilica, this one happened to be honoring Romulus, the founder of Rome.

After wandering around a bit more, we found a corner of the site that was unearthed by a project in 2009 that they think is the base/mechanism of the storied rotating dinner tower of Nero.

We also found this seagull that was standing on this stone railing and who didn't mind having his picture taken so we made a friend. Megan later found this awesome olive tree to make friends with as well.

It was Sunday and the Forum closes earlier than normal so we went back to our hotel and got ready for dinner. Weighing the nearby Italian restaurant vs the Ethiopian restaurant we decided on the Ethiopian place again...it's really that good. Here are some more pictures of the ruins including one of how thick these brick walls were made.

Off to Interlaken in the morning and good by to this Italian heat, it has been fun but it's getting a bit old dripping sweat all day.

Rome, Improvised

Today(YES!  Today; we're all caught up!), we started off our day with a walking tour of not-so-touristy Rome.  A group of very dedicated CouchSurfers/tour guides puts on a free tour every single day here.  As has been typical with CouchSurfing-related experiences, we absolutely loved it and learned a lot we never would have out of guidebooks or through wandering.

One place we visited was Rome's Rose Garden.  For some inexplicable reason, it closes after June.  I cannot imagine why they wouldn't want people to access the roses while they're lovely and in bloom, but se la vie!  An interesting bit of info our CS guide, Alessandro, shared with us: the tradition in Italy used to be to bury the dead inside a church or temple.  This was most common among the influential, wealthy, and/or famous.  Jewish people were never allowed to be entombed in those places during this time, so the rose garden actually sits atop an old Jewish cemetery.

We dropped by a ridge for a lovely view of Rome.  There is a better one coming later!  Alessandro was super knowledge; we quizzed him about all kinds of things regarding Rome, ancient and current.  He had vast swaths of knowledge to draw from as the only thing we could really stump him on was the names of some plants and animals, but mostly because he didn't know the English words for them.

This is a column in one of the basilicas we visited.  It was unique as all the columns were exactly alike.  This signifies either a very ancient building or a very modern one.  (Ancient in this case.)  "In between" one will often have mismatched columns, having taken them from other structures for reuse.  One he pointed this out, we saw it everywhere.  The line where the column changes style actually indicates where a roof or floor used to be.

Italy has two sovereign nations within its borders: Vatican City, seat of the pope and the Catholic Church, as well as Malta, the smallest state in the world.  It actually has its own currency (it also uses the Euro), stamps, and everything.  The only thing it lacks is inhabitants.  It has now become essentially an exclusive country club for well-to-do folks.  Entry is not possible, but there is a hole in the door you can peep through.  Tall green shrubs border a concrete walkway with the far-off Basilica of St. Peter in the precise middle.  It was the best peephole view I've ever seen!  I wasn't able to capture it very well with my camera, though, so here's their mailbox instead.

This plaque is posted in what was once the Jewish ghetto of Rome, where Jews were once confined and forced to live within.  It is one of the oldest, if not the oldest, continually inhabited Jewish communities in Europe.  A fish market once stood here.  The plaque declares that any fish larger than the plaque must have its head delivered to the government as a tax.  The head, at the time, was considered the most delectable part of the fish and only the nobility was permitted to dine on the largest of them.

Kelly and I agree that this is the single most incredible thing we saw during our walking tour.  In the Palazzo Spada, through the glass that surrounded an office on either was, was this hidden little treasure.  The artist Borromini and mathematicians collaborated to produce this piece of art.  It looks to be about 50 meters long when, in fact, it is only 8.  The statue at the end is only 60 centimeters tall.  The floor slopes up, the ceiling down, and the pillars become smaller to trick the eye into believing it is much grander than it was.

We dropped by a restaurant called Tastevere after the tour was over on the recommendation of our guide.  For 6 Euro, we got a plate of bread drizzled with olive oil and the plate you see below.  It is full of artisanal foods - meats, cheeses, spreads, figs, and even stuffed zucchini flowers!

Our smiles never got smaller!  It was super delicious and priced very well!  In the picture, you can see our fellows travelers, Elena from Mexico City and Julian from Columbia.  Unfortunately Alessandro had to run, so he wasn't able to join us for this part.

After we finished a fabulous lunch, we headed up to a park recommended by Alessandro with Julian.  The tree-lined lane just looked wonderful and relaxing.  Don't worry, the cars you see are parked!

The reason for the hike up to the park is that it features the best view of Rome in the city.  The sun was quite bright, but it was quite a panorama to take in!  Many buildings in Rome such as the Coliseum, the Parthenon, St. Peter's Basilica, and the Church of Sant Angelo are recognizable enough that they can be picked out when you're looking at the horizon.

We parted ways with Julian to visit the Basilica San Clemente.  This isn't a highlighted attraction in Rome, but I think I found it even more fascinating than the Coliseum!  The basilica itself was built during the Middle Ages, but what is really interesting is what in underneath the basilica.  The have excavated two floors of buildings - essentially, one building was build on another on another on another!  Below is another fourth century basilica.  Below that lays a pagans sanctuary used by the followers of Mithras and some old Roman apartments.  Mithras once competed with Christianity as a widespread religion in the area, being favored by gladiators and warriors.  It was very secretive and seemed to use animal sacrifice in some rituals, but very little is actually known.  It does not exist today and little of the faith was actually ever recorded.  Unfortunately, pictures were once again not allowed.

Our last stop of the day was the Gelateria Fassi.  It is the world's oldest continually operating ice creamery, so I could not resist!  The business, initially specializing in the sale of beer and ice in 1880, eventually turned to gelato in 1902 and has been homemaking it ever since.  It was not the best gelato we've had, but it was still very good and a great value!  The trip was worth it for the historical significance alone.  Below, you'll find me posing with ice cream making supplies from 1932.

Rome, fortunately, has many lovely water fountains that are very convenient for thirsty people to take a quick drink, slash themselves with water, or fill a water bottle.  We've been seeing them throughout Italy, but most commonly in Rome.  Until we watched our guide, a local, we didn't realize the potential.  Notice Kelly dutifully ensuring we have water.

Now, notice Kelly blocking the spout so it squirts out like a traditional drinking fountain.  How cool!  We saw the hole, but never realized its purpose!  Elena told us about a game she likes to play with her friend - when they see a fountain, they race up to it and try to get each other wet.  The first one to accomplish that goal wins.  And let me tell you, if you really plug the spout, the drinking fountain part will shoot up to 10 feet, depending on the fountain!  I may have to ambush Kelly tomorrow.  (Here's to hoping he doesn't read this right away!)

I imagine we'll be grabbing a little dinner within the next hour and kicking back, ensuring we're prepared for our final day in Rome then the journey to Switzerland the following day.  For those of you tracking, no luck on a CS host so far in Switzerland. :(  We're thinking of Marburg, Germany after that and we actually do have a host for at least a couple of days!  Hooray!

Be well,
Megan

Rome, Colosem and Pantheon

We got up after sleeping in a bit, ate a small breakfast and then headed for the subway to use our Roma Passes for our first attraction of the day, the Coloseum. This thing was a gigantic construction of stone and brick that when completed was over 50 meters tall and could seat 75,000 people. The labyrinth like area below where the main floor was, is where the attractions and props were moved and readied from, complete with many trap doors for various uses.

After the Coloseum, we headed toward the river for lunch and the back to the main city side for a trip to the Pantheon. It's a smaller and free sight to see, but it is no less impressive. The room and the dome inside are a perfect circle and sphere made from stone and how they managed to build it so exactly during their time is a great mystery.

We also stopped along the way at some places Farnese because they reminded Megan of Farnsworth. There was a garden that was closed and a palace which we didn't go into because it is currently the home of the French embassy.

Tomorrow we head off to the Forum and some other sights including a free tour being put on by a local CouchSurfing host.

Rome, Arches and Gardens

We arrived in Rome and walked the short distance from the train to our hotel to check in. We ended up going with a lower end hotel based on proximity to the train station and being in the heart of all the things we wanted to see here. Even though it doesn't have AC, the room stays a surprisingly nice  temperature, it also isn't the biggest space, but we really don't need all that much considering how little time we will be staying in it each day.

Once we got checked in and dropped our stuff off it was time to go exploring a bit. We decided to go get two of the Roma Passes, which include the cost of all public transportation for 3 days, two museum entries for free with reduced rates for any after that, and special entrances that skip the gigantic lines. All of that was completely worth the 34 euros each that we paid for them. While looking at the map and walking around, we noticed a lot of monument arches around the city center; seems to be their favorite method for commemorating events.

We then wandered around the Villa Borghese one of a few large city parks. It has a lot of monuments, and different areas that all seem to have different themes and methods of maintenance. It's like many different parks all put together and given an overall loose name. We saw, as we learned it's name later the hooded crows that are common around here, as well as a few cool fountains and some very large statues.

We also found a few diferrent flowering things that had some good smells and some interesting looks to them, including an artichoke that was in bloom.

We then went out to an African restaurant called Ristorante Africa, that had some great food and some really interesting chairs and decoration choices. Definitely worth a visit as there are many reasons that it has a 4/5 on trip advisor.

And some very interestingly carved chairs.

Then it was back to the hotel to get some more couch requests out and to get some rest for the next morning.